Thanks for your response. The whole issue of appropriate soil
fauna/symbiotic associations is quite up in the air with these trees. We
purchased them from native settings when they were already quite large and
with native soil balls intact - thus I operate under the assumption that the
correct fungal/ actinomycete/ bacterial inoculant was present.
However, at times past these tree were inoculated with P.t. spores and a
brew of Endomycorrhizal species spores. What is your opinion of competitive
displacement of native symbiotic flora with the addition of the exogenous
Thanks for all your input!
Mike the Tree Doctor
<truffler1635 at my-deja.com> wrote in message
news:80hkt6$2d0$1 at nnrp1.deja.com...
> In article <FL37vp.L38.A.ebony at news.trentu.ca>,
>kbonnici at ivory.trentu.ca wrote:
> > I would assume that its ordinary seasonal leaf drop. However, you say
> > happening to all individiauls in a species, so that seems
> > within species needles are dropped not every season, but every other, or
> > third season. Chlorosis is certainly not seasonal, and you likely would
> > discovered that with your nutrient assays and pH testing.
> > HTH,
> > Kellie
> This is just a guess, Mike and Kellie. Seasonal chlorosis could be an
> indication of stress from lack of mycorrhizae. It's possible that acid
> rain could be affecting (just a little bit) the pH of soils, which can
> eliminate mycorrhizae (which are very susceptible to changes in soil
>> You note that some trees are not affected, Mike. I'm guessing that these
> trees have already developed appropriate mycorrhizae to supply the trees
> with the appropriate nutrients. Some of these mycorrhizae leach
> nutrients from bedrock, such as potassium, phosphorus, iron, other trace
> metals; and are associated with nitrogen-fixing bacteria. Without
> knowing what fungi are associated with which trees, it's impossible to
> say anything further. But a suggestion may improve things: take a little
> soil from the non-affected trees and mix into the soil next to the
> affected trees. There is a good chance that essential mycorrhizae could
> be spread that way.
>> Your question about the seasonal chlorosis could be that one or more
> ectomycorrhizal fungi are going dormant, and therefore not gathering
> nutrients for their host trees at that point. This most frequently
> happens during the fall or winter, and is reversed during the spring
> when ectomycorrhizae typically begin aggressively growing again.
>> Recently on the web I found a site that indicated at last 7 species of
> mycorrhizal fungi could be found on a single half-centimeter of rootlet.
> How many ectomycorrhizal fungi are necessary for tree health probably
> varies from site to site. It's possible that treating with an
> ectomycorrhizal innoculant would solve the problem.
>> Daniel B. Wheeler
> > In article <nGKW3.4525$7m.262305 at newshog.newsread.com>, "Mike the Tree
Doctor" <mlamana at bestweb.net> writes:
> > >Folks:
> > >
> > >I have to pose a general question to any with experience in the matter
> > >seasonal chloroses in conifers - principally hard pines.
> > >
> > >I have a situation in southern New England (Zone 4) where for multiple
> > >now I have observed gradual yellowing of pitch pines (Pinus rigida),
> > >mtn. pine (Pinus pungens), and to a lesser degree 'Waxman' eastern
> > >pines as each winter approached.
> > >
> > >The trees in question are from multiple provenances, in multiple soils,
> > >obtained in multiple years. Not each individual of a species for lot is
> > >affected. I have done the usual battery of soil and paired soil/foliage
> > >nutrient assays - all are inconclusive. Soil pH, iron, manganese,
> > >Ca:Mg ratios are all in the ball park, but micronutrient concentrations
> > >foliage are off in some tests. All trees have been treated with NPK,
> > >sea-kelp extracts, humates, etc. at various times.
> > >
> > >Generally speaking, the condition goes away or attenuates greatly with
> > >onset of Spring - any ideas or similar experiences.
> > >
> > >Thanks!
> > >--
> > >Mike the Tree Doctor
> > >www.treedoctors.com
> > >
> > >
>>> Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/> Before you buy.